No need to fear though, I have nothing but exciting things to say about said blend… I promise! As a coffee business with impact at the heart of what we do, I knew that upon starting my new role as Coffee Program Manager, I wanted to guarantee that one of our best selling coffees was as impactful as possible. We’ve toyed with the idea of tweaking everyone’s favourite Base Range blend in the past but we always came to the same conclusion… why fix something that isn’t broken?! Well, it turns out that although not technically broken, could it potentially be a little outdated?
The history of the Docks, formerly the blend known as Dark Arches, (if you know, you know), goes back to 2013. Back to the days when Specialty coffee was fairly unheard of up North and coffee in Leeds was typically the darker side of oily. Upon starting North Star, our now COO Krag, decided that a potential way to crack the Leeds coffee scene was to offer a product that was a gateway into specialty coffee. Yes, the components of the blend each individually scored 80+ according to the Specialty Coffee Association but it was the way in which the coffee was blended that made it more approachable to the people of Yorkshire. Two super tasty South/Central American coffees prized for their body and balance were teamed with the unique earthy profile of a wet hulled Sumatra to create a characterful cup. A medium roasted blend which ended up successfully bridging the gap, embracing many of the characteristics of the traditional whilst embodying key principles of contemporary specialty production.
11 years later and our house blend has remained virtually unchanged from a component percentage perspective, with long standing partnerships emerging in coffees from Montanari Estate in Minas Gerais, Brazil and the Los Chelazos producer group in La Palma, El Salvador. However, although featuring in the same 20% and hailing from the Province of Aceh, we have found consistency of supply really challenging when it has come to the Sumatran component of this blend. Its unique flavour profile is largely down to a specific form of wet hulled processing method known as Giling Basah which is uncommon in other producing origins, resulting in the creation of a distinctive market of its own. This internal market is complex with many parties in the supply chain, including collectors who are internal middlemen, which can lead to price volatility. On top of this, we have also found ourselves running into issues with green coffee quality and longevity which has only exacerbated supply partnership instability and left us asking the question… “Is there not a better option?”
With our volume requirements for this component having reached 100 bags we began to think that maybe we should rephrase this question and instead ask… “is there not a more impactful option?” Why not look into existing supply chains where we could potentially secure a more stable coffee in both price and quality, whilst adding more value to said supply chain?! With this idea floated, I headed off to Mexico with import partners Raw Material, a trip which saw us travel on a Oaxacan coffee journey - from high in the misty mountains of the Sierra Juarez, through the cactus fields and deserts of the Sierra Mazateca and finally down to the sunny seaside coast of the Sierra Sur. An unforgettable trip which gave me a new found understanding of the value of Oaxacan coffee and an understanding of the role we roasters need to play to ensure its survival - not just to preserve the unique coffees from this region but to support a new generation with a way of life that has become deep-rooted to Oaxacan culture.
Funnily enough you also get to cup a lot of coffee on these trips and from the moment I slurped a couple of washed Mazatecan lots, cogs started turning and that lightbulb moment hit. These coffees are typically known for their herbal, sometimes pleasantly savoury character and I knew there and then that this could be the blend component that I was looking for. Upon returning to the UK, I put the wheels in motion to introduce a washed Oaxacan coffee into the blend and after vigorous testing we were blown away by the results. From July, the historic Sumatran component in the Docks will therefore be swapped out to our newly chosen washed Mazateca lot. The improved balance and syrupy body of this coffee’s character, teamed with components from our long standing partnerships in Brazil and El Salvador, creates a beautiful house blend full of clarity and flavour. The differences in the blend are subtle. You can expect the same sweetness and body… just a little less acidity and none of that typical Sumatran wildness peeking through. Instead, expect heaps of toasted nuts, a rounded stone fruit acidity and milk chocolate sweetness. And for all you milk lovers, there are rich caramel and vanilla notes that are simply delightful if you prefer a flat white or latte.
Just like our existing partnership with producers in the Sierra Juarez, the Mazateca producer group are also part of an important indigenous community in the region of Oaxaca. A group that is famed for producing some of the most complex coffees in Mexico, all whilst navigating the many complexities that come with producing coffee in the Southern states. Farms are isolated and widespread, crops are at high risk to climate-related volatility and access to finance and agricultural inputs is extremely limited. Because of this, production yields are some of the lowest in Mexico. By purchasing this coffee, we are making a long term commitment to this amazing group of producers, making up the end of a stable and profitable supply chain and providing a permanent home for their beautiful coffee.
11 years is a long time in coffee and we feel that the Docks doesn’t need to pretend to be something that it's not anymore. There’s no longer a need to ‘bridge the gap’. Specialty coffee is booming in Leeds and we want the Docks to sing. And thanks to this component tweak, not only does it taste fantastic (maybe even a little more fantastic than previously), it is now more impactful than ever.